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Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Everland Theme Park and Ganghwa Island

About a month back, Kyra called me out of the blue.  She was pretty excited about taking a trip to Everland, the largest theme park on the Korean Peninsula.  And anyone that knows me knows that I can’t pass up an opportunity to potentially throw up on roller coasters.  So we planned a trip.  Kyra, Rob and I were all free for the weekend, so we decided (since we would already be near Seoul—in Everland) to take a side trip the next day to Ganghwa Island.

Everland was really exciting.  It is half theme park and half zoo.  The areas of the theme park were styled after several areas of the world.  There was America Town—with an array of American-style thrill rides, Little Amsterdam with shops, restaurants, fountains and gardens, an English Garden, Aesop’s Land—a kind of storybook type of area filled with Kiddie rides and Global Village—displaying replicas of famous structures from around the world including St. Marks Square (Venice), the Taj Mahal, the Hagia Sophia (Istanbul), St. Peter’s Basilica (Moscow) and the Eiffel Tower.  We spent all of Saturday exploring the park and adjacent zoo.  Some of the highlights were: the Teacups (where Rob and I spun the teacups so much faster than all the kids that the parents started a commotion thinking the ride was broken), the Hurricane (it’s a giant spinning Pirate Ship ride), the Loop Coaster (because of the loops) and the Rock & Spin (it’s name fits well). 

After leaving the Park, we drove (I DROVE) through Seoul (I DROVE THROUGH SEOUL) to get to Ganghwa Island.  Ganghwa Island is actually part of Incheon Metropolitan City, however it is located right in the Seoul Connurbation.  There are two bridges that connect it to the mainland.  We took the South Bridge (totally irrelevant information for you).

We arrived late at our Bed and Breakfast.  It was a small house, right on the Yellow Sea.  We got one room and we all slept on the floor.  It was very nice and quaint—styled just like a log cabin.  We stayed up for a couple of hours drinking some beers and talking before retiring for the night.

The next day, we set of going west; our goal was to drive around the coast and just stop and do whatever we saw to be interesting.  Our first stop was a historical military installation from the Three Kingdoms Period (oh, I don’t know…a thousand years ago?).  Ganghwa Island has always been of extreme military importance to Korea.  It is situated right on the delta of the Han River.  It’s the same idea the French had when they built New Orleans—control the river mouth, control the whole river.  Anyone with control of the Han River mouth has direct access right into Seoul.  Ganghwa has been attacked by many armies including the Mongolian, Chinese, Japanese, French and American (I guess we had a little skirmish there during the reign of Teddy Roosevelt.  In the age of speaking softly this seemed a time when we used our big stick.)  This ancient fort must have been around when the Mongols invaded.  However, the most interesting part was the small, modern military fort built right next to it.  Juxtapose that!  It is kind of sobering thinking that standing right there, at the mouth of the Han River, the North Korean army is looming nearby. 

We continued along the coast of Ganghwa Island to a small beach.  Normally, a beach wouldn’t seem that amazing, however it was a little out of its element.  Gangwha Island is located at the mouth of the Han River and is also on the already-shallow Yellow Sea.  The combination of the two creates the perfect place for mudflats.  Miles and miles of mudflats surround the Island.  At this small beach, however, sand had collected and there was a small crescent beach hugging the shore between the bank and the mud.  We stopped there, walked a bit in the mud of the Yellow Sea and rode an ATV across the sand before returning to the car with ice cream in hand.

From there, the next stop was the Tideflats Heritage Center.  The museum was kind of boring, but the lands around the heritage center were very beautiful.  The center was perched high on a bluff and we could see out into the Yellow Sea.  The mudflats went on forever.  We hiked down to the water’s (mud’s) edge and took a trail that the center had build out over the mudflats.  We didn’t see any Cranes (which are a protected species in that area) but we did see two hovercrafts flying across the mudflats.

Just north of the Tideflats Heritage Center, we stopped at the ferry dock for Seongmo Island.  We didn’t wait that long, as it was only a fifteen minute crossing.  I was a bit concerned that we were going to miss the next boat, but we made it on—the last car!  Such luck!

Seongmo Island was extremely beautiful.  It contained rolling hills and quiet farmland.  The contrast with Ganghwa Island was stark—Ganghwa Island was full of steep, green mountains.  Seongmo Island was much more brown in color and it just seemed peaceful, while Ganghwa Island seemed a bit too…hmm…well, I guess it was peaceful, too.  Seongmo Island is famous for Beomun Temple.  The temple is located quite a ways up a hill.  Stair climbing is required.  But, the top is definitely rewarding.  There is a stone Buddha carved into a cave high above the Yellow Sea.  The day was quite hazy, but I could imagine that on a clear day you could see all the way to Beijing (too bad the world is round).  We were only on Seongmo Island for a short time as it is a small island and we were short for time.  We got in line for the ferry, which was a massive queue.  We thought we were going to be in for a long wait, but it only took about a half an hour.  It was a ten minute crossing back to Ganghwa Island and they had three ferries running in contrast to the on ferry running at the other dock.  Speaking of docks, these docks were not the type we see in Puget Sound.  These were just boat ramps that went down into the water.  The ferry just nosed up to the ramp and the cars drove off.  It was very…interesting.

Our last stop of the trip was at the northern end of Ganghwa Island.  I wanted to visit the very northern most tip of the island because Gangwha Island is situated in extremely close proximity to North Korea.  There is nothing between the Island and North Korea but a small channel of water.  After driving nearly all the way to the top (I was driving), I suddenly realized what we were looking at.  We had been driving north, through a wide valley and there was a mountain range directly in front of us.  I knew we were driving north and I knew we were close to the water.  I suddenly shouted, “North Korea!”  Just about then, we could see the beach.  Between us and the beach, however, was a roadblock.  Nearly panicking because I didn’t have a driver’s license and we couldn’t just pull a Chinese-Fire-Drill right in front of the station, we just decided to pull forward.  He didn’t care that I was a foreigner.  The soldier simply asked Kyra what our business was.  She replied that we were sight seeing and he politely asked us to turn around due to our proximity to North Korea and Kim Jong Il’s  army of two million.  It was as simple as that.  Although we couldn’t stand on the beach and pee into the water, we simply backed the car up, got out and took some pictures of the North, gave Kim Jong Il the finger and peed a bit in the direction of North Korea and the dictator’s army. 

After that, we returned to Daegu.  I, once more, drove through Seoul.  This time, however, the trip home took seven hours.  Despite the bad Sunday traffic, the trip was well worth it and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

 

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Those hills are North Korea.  The beach is just beyond the trees.  The guard station is on the left.

 
 
 
 
 

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